The first day was a feat of endurance, since I had only had one hour of sleep. But my New Zealand friend Brad accompanying me (and her nephew Jack doing the driving) arrived with the car at 4.30am. The flight was uneventful except for an abortive landing attempt. Just as we were approaching the runway in Warsaw, a rescue helicopter appeared out of nowhere and our pilot was asked to make a sharp re-ascent into the skies again for another 10-15 minutes. There were some upset tummies at this time! The cabin crew were busy asking people to sit down, sit down. sit down since it would have been rather dangerous otherwise. Anyway, we eventually had a perfectly smooth landing and the captain spoke to us all very positively, explaining what had happened and joking that there would be no extra charge for the tour round Warsaw! It was an interesting skyline, dominated by one huge building of controversial old Soviet design. (when Big Brother Was Watching You) - I think it is built with 40 million bricks. In contrast there are numerous modern corporate high rise buildings whereas in the suburbs, there are loads and loads of flats, all concrete and uniform. Yet in between, there are 'Legoland' style rows of properties and the vast sweeping river that carves its own path.
We took the bus from the airport to save money, avoiding the taxi drivers touting for business, and after several miles it was clearly time to disembark, by the railway station. What a hassle - we were on the wrong side of the road for where we needed to be! There was no way of crossing the street with my suitcase even though the hotel was a short stroll away. By the bus stops, the only passenger lift for disabled people was broken. Between us, Brad and I negotiated the luggage down into the subway with some ingenuity, scouting ahead for the best routes, and also teamwork and offers of help from local people (women!) carrying the suitcase up the next flight of steps. I was so worried about that sacro-iliac joint again after similar difficulties in Chicago back in May, necessitating extra expense with physiotherapy and much less sightseeing than I would have hoped, considering this is a Travelling Fellowship. The problem is the weight of the paperwork and the books, the old laptop and battery chargers for the camera, video etc..
In a few hours we had located an excellent vegetarian cafe, the banks, the shopping mall, the street layout and also found out about the Philharmonic Orchestra playing that evening as part of the Chopin Festival. So that was really stunning. Everyone was beautifully dressed, the auditorium was almost full to capacity, the chandeliers were dripping with magnificent crystal and the orchestra and soloists were playing to perfection. "BRAVO", shouted the lady in front of us holding her posy of flowers, at the end of the Brahms concerto, just before the wonderful applause and even a solo piece as an encore. She wasn't there after the interval but we had been people-watching and admiring the outfits.
We moved forward a couple of rows to the better seats (as you do) and next, it was that magnificent Tchaikovsky piano concerto that brought goosebumps to my arms and tears to my eyes. Now, what was it a signature tune for? The soloist's wrists were practically dancing in the air above the piano keys with expression and delight.
The evening compensated in some way for my exhaustion and great disappointment that the laptop's main switch laptop had actually failed to survive the journey. No photos for this blog yet then!
The next two full days in Warsaw were a chance to visit the museums and gain some awareness of the vast wealth of science and culture there is, adding so much to the political story of human rights, war and peace. Visiting Warsaw would be a quick way for anyone to learn - it would certainly be an excellent visit to inspire any UK student's interest in 20th century politics, philosophy and economics, and meanwhile fill them with the awe and wonder of science, culture and architecture.
We walked and walked, admiring the magnificent building reconstructions over the last 60 years. We had soon located the main landmarks. We visited the brand new museum of the Warsaw Uprising and I must say, I did appreciate the relative peace and gentleness of the children's area telling the same story but through their eyes, plus the rose garden where there are old war photographs but with touches of colour added to them. I had found the darkness and the small faded print of the terrible story far too much for my eyesight and my nerves. However the basic message was plain, along with various quotes and artefacts that tell the public how the Polish Home Army were so let down that August by the Allies who for ages just did nothing to help.
750,000 deaths?
84% of the buildings destroyed.
Interestingly there are various references to the way that Georgian soldiers had helped. There is even an obelisk in the Freedom Garden, commemorating the link in several different languages - Polish, Georgian and English. Strange that the Georgians and the Poles both make use of phage therapy - as do the Germans. The UK and USA have some catching up to do.
Here are some of the texts being exhibited from the Polish perspective. Perhaps we should contemplate them.
1. The Big Three
'In 1943, at the conference in Teheran, the leaders of the Big Three determine the postwar distribution of power. Polish leaders are not aware of this agreement. The Allies remain indifferent to the outbreak of the Rising. The British government is untruthful in reporaching the Polish authorities for the lack of coordination on the timing of the Rising. All throughout August the Allies procrastinate in recognising the Home Army as an allied army, so the Germans feel free to murder the captured insurgents. The British press is silent at first, and then later a significant part underestimates the significance of the Rising and tried to justify Stalin's actions.'
2. The Anglo American Press of the Rising
'Only exceptionally does someone notice in the Rising a "great contribution to the Allied cause". Lieut. Ward writes fot the Times from Warsaw. George Orwell strongly condemns the "low and cowardly posture of the British press" in the Tribune.'
3. Victims of Uncle Joe's Policy
...'Only Stalin is satisfied - he can avoid the accusation of not having helped the Rising'.
Several hours later, I appreciated the grandeur and quietness of the much older museum in the central square - a mile or so away in Warsaw's Old Town. The ladies ushered the last one or two visitors fairly quickly because it was late Friday afternoon - but I managed to notice a bronze bust of General Rommel to add to this amazing phage story!
As far as I knew until then, Rommel was a General in the German Army who had led the troops in North Africa and they had all been issued with packs of phages as a safeguard against bacterial infections. I had not realised that, from what I was being informed, Rommel was a Polish General. The museum text described that he was captured by the Germans during 1939-45. So that is puzzling to me as yet.
"A bust of General Juliuz Rommel, Stefan Chmielarski c.1935, bronze, mould.
(1881-1967) Polish Army General. In September 1939 he first commanded the "Lodz" Army and later the "Warsaw" Army. From 1939 to 1945 in German captivity."
There are a couple of other little stories about this first visit to Warsaw - and much more closely associated with phages. If you are a phage buff, you will know that phages are found all over the place, especially in sewage. Whilst walking round Warsaw it was interesting to see that a new sewer was being installed in one of the roads, and the pavement was right beside it! So there is now a rather close up view of a sewer, as if you wanted to know what they look like. Perhaps the Polish health and safety approach is a rather practical one - if you happen to be standing too close and you fall in, that's your own tough luck!
Then later as we were walking the route from the Presidential residence to the old Royal Castle, what should be happening but a complete clearance of the road surface and removal of all the tramlines and sewers. Again, right beside us just a few inches away, was a dirty great big sewer being heaved and shoved out by heavy equipment - bash, bash, bash! There was plenty of time to take close up shots of what was going on, and even a bit of video footage on the mobile phone. In the interests of equality, I think the person in charge was the woman. Between them, they did a great job and on our return an hour or two later, it was all done, the sewer was removed, the hole covered up and the road surface smoothed over with sand just as beautifully as a newly iced cake. Those sewers would have had a very dramatic story to tell, I gather.
Anyway there are plenty more phages in Poland. It is intriguing that sauerkraut, pickles and salami-type meats are also a natural source of phages. I had sent a very hurried note to a colleague of mine back in England to the effect that at least there are plenty of phages in these Polish supermarkets, and next thing I knew, he had forwarded my message halfway round the world to another phage colleague in Canada! So be aware - if there is a huge increase in the Polish tourist market all of a sudden with rumours going round that you can nip over here and buy phages off the shelf - well, it was just a matter of someone taking my words rather literally.